Friday, June 24, 2011

Midsummer nightmare (not really) - Stockholm June 24 2011

Looks like a mob - on the outside is
people on bleachers - inside a group is
dancing around the Maypole
We received a list of Midsummer events from the TI this morning on a scale of completely touristy to traditional to wildly alternative hosted by "Miss Inga" (Martin Johansson) - we went somewhere down the middle. The events at Vitabergsparken were super cute, from the town aldermen raising the maypole (which was almost certainly made by the town women) to the music (an oompah band with Swedish singing - we haven't heard much Swedish this trip as everyone seems to try English first) to the ring-around-the-rosey type dance with hand motions of playing violins, laughing, and clapping. We're not sure exactly what was going on, but it was adorable.

Celebrating Midsummer with
 jordbærret (local Swedish stawberries)
It's interesting to be celebrating an overtly Pagan holiday. Kids make garlands (crowns of flowers) and everybody eats fresh local strawberries. A lot of the Judo-Christian traditions follow along Pagan lines, but going to a nationalized overly Pagan ritual is amusing.

Went to Vapiano for lunch. It's described as a pizza/pasta/salad bar where you can add your own toppings and make whatever you want. You carry around a sort of library card and check out when you leave. The problem was - I selected a fairly plain pizza and tried to ask to add a few toppings - plus Olga and I were planning to share one pizza so we were finding out what toppings they have, negotiating with each other, and trying to get the chef to sprinkle it onto the pizza on the spot. It was really complicated! Olga sat down and I surprised her with what I could figure out for pizza toppings and salad ingredients. It all turned out well, although quite stressful.

Stockholm's Karlaplan metro station
 The restroom at Vapiano is confusing as well. There is a common area shared by men and women for washing hands, and there are two doors that are marked for women. There is also a urinal area a corner and a couple of unmarked doors - presumably for men. An older woman wandered into one of the unlabeled doors and then through the urinal area - I didn't mind but she seemed embarassed. Later I saw her again while washing up. Using rusty English as a second or third language, she clearly said "I didn't see it". Does it refer to the signage? Or something specific she didn't see while in the urinal area? We'll never know!

The monstrosity Vasa
Headed over to Djurgården island for a visit to the Vasa museum. The museum is dedicated to one thing: the fully-preserved gigantic Swedish warship from the early 17th century they recovered in the 1960s. They have countless period accoutrement, a handful of skeletons, and several sails recovered from the ship - and a number of films depicting the recovery and preservation. It's really overwhelming as you walk around it - very close in dimensions to a Boeing 747. It's ornately decorated and have they recently have performed in-depth tests to determine which colors of paint were used - now they have detailed models showing what it looked like originally, colors and all.

Belgian ales in Stockholm
As Midsummer Eve was rapidly approaching, and everything on our contingency list turned out to be closed, we started walking different corners of the city trying to find an open restaurant. We'd walk a hotspot area, hop on the tram with our all-day-unlimited transit pass, walk around another restaurant we'd read about, hop on the subway, repeat. Eventually tried the touristy area of Gamla Stan because, hey, a tourist's gotta eat, right? We consider ourselves travelers rather than tourists, but we were getting desperate. Walked around in circles a couple of times until we found Hermitage vegetarian buffet. It's a perfect place for our last dinner because (1) it's open (2) it's inexpensive (3) it's heathy, tasty, and bottomless. It’s a family-run place, self-proclaimed “30-80% organic” – smorgasbord of lentil soup, barley salad, homemade hummus, a well-loaded potato salad.

Capped off the night at Belgobaren (Belgian bar). I ordered the Helcule Stout, which claims it is the only Belgian Stout. Although they have no competition, it's a really smooth stout, dark brown in color, with a very smokey aftertaste. I made the mistake of ordering Westmalle Dubbel for Olga, which she claims is reminiscent of sawdust and horse pee. Perhaps not the best way to end the trip.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Return to Sweden - June 23 2011

Can you identify all of the
ice cream flavors?
It's so comforting to be back in Sweden - we already know how to read all of the signs and ice cream flavors - yet Stockholm feels so much deeper and wider - a true imperial city. Last night we walked for an hour after dinner and barely touched the surface of Norrmalm (downtown), Gamla Stan (old town), Södermalm (south town)

Our new friend Florian
Met for coffee with a friend of a friend (now a friend proper). He told us about some of the "alternative" Midsummer celebrations we can attend tomorrow, including one that has replaced dancing around a maypole phallus with dancing through a female c**t (his description, not mine). Then he gave us a Gay Map of the city, presumably printed for pride weekend. It should be fun visiting sights recommended by this map!

Metro station art
Took the free guided Stockholm metro art tour. There are 100 metro stations in Stockholm, 91 with art installations. We visited about 6. The art ranges from tiny subtle tiles to rainbows across archways to an exhibit on Carl Linnaeus Swedish father of Latin species nomenclature. I've seen really amazing photos of some Stockholm metro stations - in time I hope to return to visit more of them.

See-sawing at Kulturhuset
Stayed on the metro and popped over to Kulturhuset (culture house), which is a 7-story center of art galleries, cafes, small theatres, and a handful of kitsch shops. There was an exhibit on the Swedish artist and author Stig Claesson, I loved the 1960s video where they showed him painting, and you can look at the finished pieces there on the wall while watching him make them.

Dinner at Mest

On the way out, they wouldn't let us use the toilet - you have to use a Scandinavian cell phone to send an SMS/txt message to the toilet - you are charged 5 Kroners and the gates opens. Thankfully there's also a free toilet 6 floors up :)

Restroom with paid entry via cell

Walked around the city some more - it's a bit overwhelming because there are so many things to see and do. Ended the night at Mest bar & Restaurang in Södermalm. They make the most wonderful salmon dish cooked and served on oak planks - of course smothered in mashed potatoes.

Trying to steal the Nobel prize

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

The famous Edvard Grieg - June 22 2011

Breakfast sandwich,
Norwegian style
After authentic Norwegian open-face sandwiches for breakfast, we took the tram to Troldhaugen (troll hill), the summer villa of the famous 19th century Norwegian composer. It's a 20-minute ride and then a lovely 20-minute walk through the countryside (ok, suburbs) to his residence.

Olga repeatedly jumping to
distract Grieg at his writing
desk (click to view full size)
I'd never heard of Grieg before, but Olga says he's up there with the other Classical composers of his time, so I suppose he's particularly famous in Russia. In fact, the place was crawling with Russians, the likes of which we haven't seen so far on this trip. We caught a brief lunchtime performance, and I didn't recognize any of the pieces, other than the one Olga has been humming and a snippet I overheard in the gift shop.

Picnicing on Wasa freebies
at Troldhaugen
For the second time in a week, we had an afternoon snack courtesy of Wasa (the Scandinavian cracker company). They seem to be giving away their fruit cup + cereal snacks in tourist hotspots all over Norway and we're often in the right place at the right time.

Grieg mini concert
We've been hearing about the special brown Norwegian goat cheese, and today was our last chance to try it. I've never met a goat cheese I liked outside of Greece, but Olga was determined. We found a kiosk proudly selling the stuff in the fisherman's market, so I'd have something (different) to eat too. The young man selling it seemed surprised to prepare it for us. "Goat cheese? The brown stuff?" "Yeah..." "Oh wow, great!!!" He very excitedly donned what looked like gardening gloves and went to work sawing off a chunk for us (Scandinavians are famously leery of stinky cheeses). We found a place selling good rolls, and a sandwich was made! I had my crab/shrimp sandwich, Olga had her goat cheese sandwich.

The brown goat cheese!
I tried a bite, and the cheese seemed perfectly inoffensive. Afterwards, I saw Olga throw away the knife with which she cut the cheese, while a big chunk still remained. "Don't you want anymore?" Olga shrugged. "But why? You finished the sandwich." "Well, I added A LOT of mustard."

Bergen's cute but overwhelmed
airport (elevator dressed up
like British phone booth)
Uneventful flight from Bergen to Stockholm. Picked up the bag Olga had left in Stockholm - which seemed like a great idea at the time - but this past week she has had a very small variety of things to wear (one long sleeve shirt, sandals, no other shoes). It's hard to predict the weather for all of Scandinavia and narrow it down to just a couple of outfits.

Multinational dinner
Went to take a walk and grab a small bite. Almost every restaurant's kitchen was closed at 10:15pm, including one who seated us, gave us full dinner menus, then came back to take our order and were surprised we were ordering food. Ended up eating at Pickwick Restaurang. Olga noticed that were are American- and Russian-born travelers sitting in a British pub in Stockholm drinking German hefeweizen and eating traditional Swedish cuisine being served by a waitress from Gdansk Poland.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Exploring Bergen and Bryggen - June 21 2011

The eagle's claw
This morning we were powerless. The intensity of the 5+ leg 14-hour fjord tour plus the sun and fresh air - this is where 'fresh' is defined - knocked us out. The only thing that got us out of bed at 9am was the singular notion that there are so many things to see and experience in Bergen - more even than Oslo - and we have only a day and a half remaining.

Pinup girl in the old
sleeping cabinet - Olga
providing the missing limbs
We kept forgetting to bring things and dropping jackets, bags, hats due to lack of mental and physical strength. After we managed to coast through a lovely breakfast where we shared an open-face jamón serrano sandwich and a vanilla cream Danish with coffees, we took the walking tour of old-town Bryggen.

Old Bryggen buildings falling
down quite spectacularly
Our hotel considers itself 'basic' because it doesn't have daily housekeeping, a phone in the room for a wake-up call, or a place to check luggage on your last day. What it does have - large space with fancy and useful new furniture, funny inspirational quotes on the walls, heated bathroom floor - more than makes up for it. Especially the heated bathroom floor.

You can't see, but there is a 10+ foot
drop immediately behind me to
the park below
On the Bryggen tour, we learned that the Hanseatic period assembly hall kitchen floors would get so hot, the young apprentices would wear Dutch-like wooden shoes as to not burn their feet. I have experienced my first and second heated floors on the same day. It must get REALLY cold here in the winter.

Why do they always come here?
I guess we'll never know
(cute toy store in Bergen)
The tour of old Bryggen was like a European Williamsburg, complete with the tiny cabinets the apprentices slept in (tops-to-tails, sitting upright) and the eagle-claw-laden rope the housemaster used to ring for help. Our tourguide had just returned to Bergen (and tourguiding) this week - as well as our bartender in Flåm). As the summer kicks into high gear, we see concerts series' starting a day or two after we leave, but we're happy to be able to catch both the Solstice in Norway and Midsummer in Sweden.

Ordering fish ball soup and
four kinds of fish cakes!
Tired of having museums close on us at 4 or 5pm, we went to the leprosy museum at 3pm, thinking we were plenty early.

What? foiled again!
The museum closure afforded us a little downtime, which meant some postcard and journal time for Olga and a nap and catch-up blogging time for me. We started at the hotel and then found ourselves attracted to the Chillout Travel Centre.

Cool free high-wire (actually low-
wire) in a park in Bergen
I am quite smitten with Chillout. They have everything a traveler might want: overstuffed couches, fancy coffees, an amazing chocolate-chili-fudge flourless cake, all kinds of gadgets from electrical adapters to sporks to TSA-friendly breathstrip-style laundry detergent sheets, gear including various sizes of backpacks and moisture-wicking shirts, and a very diverse collection of travel books for sale - oh and free wifi. Love this place.

Chillout Travel Centre
Up the funicular we went around 8:30pm, what would've been sunset had it not been solstice. But the solstice sunset - where the sun just hangs there reflecting off the harbor - is the most beautiful. The top of the mountain, 3 short minutes up from downtown Bergen, is like another world. The forest is cool but humid, still damp from the light rain yesterday.

People are mountain biking, hiking, and eating ice cream. Starting our hike, a couple asked which was the direction back to the funicular. It seemed a strange question, obviously it's back downhill. Then a half an hour later, we found ourselves nearly lost as we wandered off-trail through the streams and mosses high above the city. The strange couple we had met earlier could've easily been an older version of ourselves trapped in a time loop.

View of Bergen from the
top of the mountain (8:30pm)
Dinner at Pygmalion cafe. The patrons (almost entirely female) seemed to be fanatical about the restaurant, the folk singer playing, and each other. The singer's accompanist reading the palm of a beautiful young lady. The older patron gushing over the dreadlocked possibly Haitian restaurateur. Perhaps they are all a bit tipsy. Ok, they were quite drunk.

Mountain nature hike
before heading back down
the mountain (9:00pm)
The food was excellent - all natural slash organic ingredients - we shared Norwegian smoked salmon, potato salad, roasted potatoes (they are fanatical about their potatoes), garlic bread, salad, and an open-face brie sandwich on spelt rye bread.

Dinner (10:00pm,
still light out)
Wandered into Garage bar - rock bands play the 6 nights a week - but Tuesdays are cheap wine nights. Wall to wall blonde cute college kids drinking their local Hansa beer and passing around 140 Kroner (very cheap) bottles of wine. Unsatisfied, and unable to find a good desserty cafe, we tried the 'if you can't beat em, join em' strategy and visited Vamoose bar(directly under our hotel) that we heard in overdrive last night.

Mad customers at the
Pygmalion restaurant (can you
spot the palm reading?)
Ended the solstice there with Dorothy Goodbody's Wholesome Stout (British) and an all Bruce Springstein montage in tribute to Clarence Clemons.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Pining for the fjords - June 20 2011

Olga Kindling on the
Oslo-Ål train
What can I possibly say about the Norway in a Nutshell tour? It's a fun, tiring, breathtaking series of rides and views the likes of which I have never seen before. The fjords are so beyond compare, the only way I can describe them is that I was previously living in a 2-dimensional world and I just saw 3-D for the first time. Everybody should learn about the Norway in a Nutshell tour just to open their mind to the idea that something like this exists. It cost us each $200 end-to-end, which includes a train from Oslo to Myrdal, the scenic rail down the mountainside Flåm (including a stop at a Niagara-quality waterfall and tongue-in-cheek tempting siren show), a 2-hour cruise through the Sognefjord to Gudvangen, a bus ride to the closest train station in Voss (didn't have a chance to taste the water), and then we rejoined the train continuing to Bergen. What a unique, well-planned, thoughtful, well-coordinated daytrip!

Trying a Norwegian snack on
Ål-Flåm bus - consistency
of a dishrag with sugar,
butter, and cinnamon
The beauty of the fjords can't possibly be captured in photography (though many have tried), so here are some photos of the beauty of Olga overwhelmed by the majesty of the fjords.

Napping on the Ål-Flåm bus
The weather kept changing from sunshine with rain - to cloudy rain - to sunny - to dry cloudy. Olga kept promising rainbows, but sadly none arrived on demand. Sometimes it would drizzle and we'd try to figure out if it was coming from the sky or mist from the waves or the cascades of snowmelt from a height of 1200-1500 meters.

Reading maps on the
Myrdal-Flåm scenic railway

After arriving in Flåm via scenic train through an incline of 55 degrees, we treated ourselves to the Ægir Bryggeri (brewery). I had the porter, which has the consistency of chocolate milk with an airy cappuccino foam - delicious!! Olga's Wit (wheat) was a thicker version of Blue Moon with a noticeable built-in orange flavor. Please feel free to submit comments with your impressions of Olga's Wit.

Waterfall stopover on the
scenic railway - trying to
not be lured by the sirens!
Our path kept weaving through that of several other curious travelers. There's the family of four that seemed to be in dire straits in the morning, the father and two teenage boys sitting on one side of the traincar, the mother sitting on the opposite side and throwing only occasional sidelong glances at them, us never knowing for sure whether they were together until somebody mentioned being from Maryland, and both the father and the distant mother both replied "yeah huh" at the same time. They seemed to get along later in the day, but it was still eerie: every time we saw just the 3 guys, we wondered if something had 'happened' to the mother on the fjord cruise.

Ægir bryggeri in Flåm

There's the professor, living in Maryland, originally from Belgium, who had studied at Stanford and taught linguistics at a college in Pittsburgh. He's on sabbatical, with some time to kill, so he headed straight to Bergen, with plans to do a more in-depth visit to the fjords, while we did our one-day overview tour.

Munching on carrots during
the Flåm-Gudvagen fjord cruise
There are the 3 ladies from Colorado - two perhaps in their late 40s - and their mother - who were continually victims of circumstance. There was a change in the train schedule, which mostly affected only them as they tried to do a roundtrip in one day. First they were told there wouldn't be time to take the scenic railway and/or the fjord cruise, then they considered following us to Bergen but realized their luggage was still in their hotel room in Oslo, then they panicked realizing their rental car was abandoned in a 1-day parking spot in Oslo, and so on. The last we saw of them was in Bergen at 8:30pm, they were going to get a bite to eat and then take a train-bus-train combination back, returning to Oslo at 6:30am.

On the fjord cruise - knocked
out by the carrots

Then there was the Jewish couple from Lexington Massachusetts, daughter studying abroad in Europe, reuniting for this Norwegian trip.

Kindling on the
Gudvagen-Voss bus
It's like character development for a really bad movie. Our paths crossed a bit with a large Thai family, a few French people, some ItalianSpanish students, a family of four from Australia, but for the most part we seemed to be on a trajectory with other Americans.

Hot dogs and french fries on
the Voss-Bergen train

In Bergen, we found Dickens Kontoret (office), a Victorian-style hidden-away room tucked inside a major downtown restaurant. Contents: movers, shakers, wheelers, dealers, one Dave, and one Olga. Dark wood tables, vintage red leather upholstery with French brass tacks. You can almost smell the pipe smoke lingering from centuries prior. Business travelers from branches all over the world, coming for orientation at the head office, tentatively making their attempt at smalltalk, receiving tips on how to compromise, how to say hello in Norwegian, how to drink...

We made it to Bergen!!
Olga ordered the Ægir IPA (from the brewery we visited this afternoon in Flåm) - she says there's an openness to it, what one imagines chamomile pollen would taste like. I had the Nøgne Ø Porter, from Oslo suburb Grimstad, which proudly lists Grimstadvoss (water) as its first ingredient. My impression is of blackberry pie without the blackberries - and an aftertaste of shoepolish. I think that's what every porter strives to be - nice job Nøgne Ø.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Oslo to the rescue - June 19 2011

In Vigeland's park in Oslo

We've had a terribly difficult time paying for purchases on this trip. In Denmark, it was almost impossible to pay using a credit card because I don't know nor have I ever used a PIN number. Why would I even have a PIN on a non-debit credit card?

The very few places that would take our cards would grumble and take it to the back office and work some magic before coming back and grumbling some more and giving me a few pages of documents to sign, and then kindly letting us know there will be a 1.25% - 3.75% surcharge. The Denmark's DSB rail took AMEX, thank goodness, which we used to travel around the country. The ATMs weren't much better: every time we faced a new ATM (which was often as our credit cards weren't seeing much action) we had to try every card we had before finding one that worked.

    Vigeland's Daleks exterminate -
    with monolith in the background
  • Sunday, our first night in Copenhagen, I spent an hour on the phone with the bank. I kept escalating up higher and higher through senior call center personnel. I'd be speaking with a new rep, they seemed to understand, they'd give a crazy theory or workaround idea, then they would demonstrate they were completely confused. "You're trying to make a cash advance?" "NO I'm just trying to make any purchase at any store!" They promised to send me a PIN number in the mail - and at the same time sent me off with this advice from his manager: I can go into any bank that takes Visa and change the PIN number there.
  • Monday all banks in Denmark were closed for the Pentecost holiday.
  • Tuesday all banks we went to were closed for no obvious reason.
  • Wednesday I went into a bank and was told I can't change my PIN there unless I already know my PIN. That makes sense.
    Adorable tiny car behind
    normal really small car
  • Thursday we left for Sweden and had no further issues with the PIN number. When making a purchase, just tell them you don't have PIN and they hit the 'no PIN' button. We still had to shuffle through various ATM cards before we could get cash, but it was much less urgent.
  • Friday we rode the rails to Norway. It's a very 'no PIN, no problem' country. I noticed when I was paying for my two beers at the brewpub that the bartender instinctively reached for the credit card machine. No more talk of credit card processing fees and international transaction surcharges.
  • Saturday my shiny new PIN number arrived in the US. As an experiment, I bought ice cream at the opera house using my credit card, and when prompted for the PIN number, I purposely entered the wrong number. It went through!!! In the afternoon, I paid for a cup of coffee with cash and received a smile and thoughtful 'thank you' in return - the barista was pleasantly surprised. At dinner with our friends, I reached into my pocket for cash to cover our portion - and my friend laughed at me and acted as though he had never seen Norwegian currency before!
    Is this normal? Does Oslo run
    soap through the fountain pipes?
  • Sunday we were in the mood for a beer as we wrapped on the Oslo portion of our trip. In Norway, alcohol sales in stores are forbidden by the church/state on Sundays, so we popped into a friendly neighborhood bar complete with porch swings and a creative energetic DJ. I tried any wrong PIN (there are 9999 of them) and it didn't go through. Then I tried my new PIN and it worked!
Norway is all about the plastic - there's such a strong credit card culture here. Now we're trying to figure out what to do with all of these Norwegian Kroners ;)

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Oslo by foot - June 18 2011

Walk inside a bubble at Aker Brygge
Our first full day in Oslo, the plan for today was simple: explore a few preselected neighborhoods, visit a museum, and meet with local friends for dinner and drinks. That was the plan.
Is this the opera house or the new
Holmenkollen Ski Jump museum?
You can tell what Olga thinks
Oslo is so small and easily walkable, it felt like we looped the city a few times in our walks. From Aker Brygge (similar to San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf), you can see the opera house. From the opera house, you can see the train station. From the train station, you can see the up-and-coming hipster area Gamlebyen. From Gamlebyen, you can see just about everything. Every time we walked to a new neighborhood, it felt like we still had a toe in an old one and were literally looking forward to the next one. Very small city.

Is this the hop-on or the hop-off?
The new opera house is built on a pier on the harbor - and architected in such a way that it gently slopes out of the water, coming out like an iceberg. You can scale the roof, but before you do, notice that they sell ice cream you can take up with you. You don't have to limit yourself to 1 or 2 flavors or even one or two scoops - they charge by weight and you can get 1 morsel of 1 flavor, a chunk of another, 1 scoop of a third, a taste of.... Once on the inside, notice the whole place is reminiscent of the Fortress of Solitude. Eating ice cream on the roof of the iceberg while scanning the cityscape... this is why we travel.

Eating ice cream on the roof
of the opera house
We were having so much fun exploring neighborhoods that we completely missed the Munch Museum. We got there, went down to the basement, checked in our bags (they have tight appearance-of-security measures since two people walked in and out with two of their most famous pieces), and by the time we got back to the security line, the museum had closed. Fear not, they have long hours on Sunday - and also a fine free Munch exhibit at the National Gallery in Oslo.

Jousting at the ruins near
a Renaissance festival
For dinner, we met with our friend Re-Shir-Dan and his friend Victoria for tapas. We walked into 3 different tapas places in the same neighborhood before we found one that promised a table in 30 minutes - the others quoted an hour and 90 minutes. Almost two hours into a 30 minute wait, we were guided to our table. There are a few things going on here. First, there's a massive shortage of restaurants, especially in a popular neighborhood like Grünerløkka. Second, groups seem to stay at their table for hours and hours. People who seemed to be almost finished when we arrived were even more almost finished two hours later when we were seated. That's so European.

More milk, less cocoa? WHY?!?
Earlier in the day, we saw a toddler walking, pacifier in mouth, 'football' in hand. It seems here you learn how to kick a ball before you stop using a pacifier. Love the European priorities! Speaking of priorities, sometime after dinner we started talking about how many weeks of vacation and holidays Norwegians get, how they don't have to think about Medical care, how they have short working days, etc. Ours friends asked why we live in the US and for a moment I couldn't remember why. There's a distinct "work to live" mentality here, a huge lifestyle difference. They have figured out what's important to them and made it a priority. The pendulum seems to have swung back to Europe being the place to live for a relaxed satisfied life with work sprinkled throughout.

At the botanical garden: Antennaria
Neglecta from N-Amerika
Oslo has a really interesting zoning system. Zone 1 is all commercial - this is where most bars and nightclubs are. They're allowed to play loud music and have outdoor seating until 3am because nobody lives anywhere nearby (except unwitting tourists). Zones 2-4 limit noise to low levels / indoors after midnight. Nice system!

RSD and Victoria at tapas
After the grand tour of his flat, and much debate, we headed to Eilifs Landhandleri bar near our hotel. The atmosphere had been described as Swedish white trash where everybody sings along with the songs, which are all pop hits from the 70s, 80s, and the current decade. Everyone is either in their 20s or their 50s. This sounds like a place I just had to see with my own eyes. I have to say the place is much tamer than I imagined. There's a good amount of singing, and cougars, and grinding on the dancefloor, and the cougars... but still it never got out of control. A great time was had by all.

Horsing around at Eilifs Landhandleri